Georgoli peak

Georgoli peak

This entry is compiled and applied by "popular science China" Science Encyclopedia

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"Chogoli" is usually considered to be Tajik, which means "tall and majestic". Qiaogeli peak is the main peak of Karakorum mountain, also known as K2 peak, with an altitude of 8611 meters. "K" refers to Karakorum mountain, "2" means that it was the second investigated peak of Karakorum mountain at that time. Qiaogeli peak mainly has six ridges. The northwest southeast ridge is the main ridge line of Karakorum Mountain vein, which is also the border line of China and Pakistan. Others are the North Ridge, the west ridge and the northwest ridge.

On July 31, 1954, Italian explorers Rino lesdre and Achilli copagononi first reached the summit. Qiaogeli peak is recognized as the most difficult mountain to climb over 8000 meters by the international mountaineering community. It is also the only 8000 meter independent mountain that has not been successfully climbed in winter so far.

brief introduction

The English name of chogori peak is qogir (also written as chogori and chhogori), "qogir" is usually regarded as Tajik, which means "tall and majestic". The reason why there is such a saying is that the Tajiks are the guardians of the treasure of chogori peak. However, the international mountaineering circles generally call it K2.

Located at 35 ° 52 ′ 55 ″ N and 76 ° 30 ′ 51 ″ e, qiaogoli peak is located in the middle part of Karakorum Mountains and the border between China and Pakistan. It is located in Tashkurgan Autonomous County of Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region in China in the East and Pakistan in the West. At an altitude of 8611 meters, it is the second highest peak in the world, only next to Mount Everest.

The origin of the name

In 1856, Indians once inspected the situation of georgory. The comprehensive investigation was completed by Henry haversham Godwin Austen in 1861. He led a team to conduct a more detailed investigation on the mountain conditions and climatic conditions from the south side of the Karakoram mountains. Therefore, K2 was once known as Austin peak, which can be reflected from some dated maps. The peaks named after individuals have never been recognized by most people. The foreign mountaineering circles advocate that the Karakoram mountains should be named according to the order of investigation, with K1 to K5 respectively. The other four peaks are mahabulum (K1), bulaote (K3), jiashuerbulumu II (K4) and jiashuerbulumu I (K5). Because qiaogeli is the second mountain to be investigated in the Karakoram mountains, the internationally recognized name is K2. In addition, the height of qiaogeli peak ranks second among the 14 peaks with an altitude of more than 8000 meters in the world, which is also a saying called K2.

geographical environment

Topography

Qiaogeli peak is pyramid shaped, with ice cliffs and steep mountains. The steep slope is covered with the trail of avalanche chute. At the top of the mountain is an ice slope rising slightly from north to south, covering a large area. On the north side, the slope is more than 45 degrees. From the base camp on the north side to the peak, the vertical height difference is as high as 4700 meters, which is the largest peak with a height difference of more than 8000 meters in the world. The glacier on the north side is called qiaogeli glacier, and the terrain is complex and changeable. The surface of glacier is broken, and the cracks of light and dark ice crisscross. The valley on the west side of the glacier is a steep cliff with frequent rolling stones, ice avalanches and avalanches. On both sides of the chogoli peak is the 44 km long insugati glacier.

Connecting Mt. Qomolangma with Mt. chogoli, we can measure that the topographic protrusion of Mt. chogoli is 4017 meters. From the point of view of topographic prominence, qiaogeli peak is the peak with the largest topographic prominence in the Karakoram mountains.

Here are some of the Wei peaks of chogory peak:

(1) Qogir southwest peak, 8580 meters (28150 feet) above sea level, is located in Pakistan.

(2) Qogir West, 8230 meters (27001 feet) above sea level, is located on the border between China and Pakistan.

(3) Qogir southwest ridge peak, 8134 m (26686 ft) above sea level, is located in Pakistan.

The Karakoram mountains stretch for hundreds of kilometers, with a northwest southeast trend, generally at an altitude of more than 6000 meters. There are dense peaks in the mountain range, including qiaogeli peak, which is closely connected with four world-class famous peaks of more than 8000 meters: to the east of qiaogeli peak is bulaote peak, with an altitude of 8051 meters; in turn, there are jiashuerbulumu II peak, with an altitude of 8035 meters; jiashuerbulumu I peak, with an altitude of 8080 meters.

The 14 peaks above 8000 meters in the world account for nearly one-third of the total. There are also many extremely high mountains above 7000 meters and below 8000 meters around the qiogoli peak, such as skangri peak at an altitude of 7545 meters, Sigil brumu peak at an altitude of 7410 meters, chongtar peak at an altitude of 7315 meters, and so on. Therefore, it has become the second mountaineering center of the world. The route to qiaogeli mountain is the longest one among the open mountains in China. From Yecheng, an important town in southern Xinjiang, take the car along Xinzang highway to Mazha, and then take the simple highway for 25 kilometers to dadala village. Starting from here, you can walk for 6 days, 90 kilometers to reach the base camp of Mount chogoli (Yinhong beach, 3924 meters above sea level). This section of the road needs to cross the ageledaban at an altitude of 4800 meters to enter the keleqing River Valley. It is necessary to avoid the sudden rise of the river in July and August, when neither human nor animal can pass through.

Climate and environment

Qiaogeli peak area is not only dangerous in terrain, but also has a very bad climate. From May to September every year, the southwest monsoon sends warm and humid air to melt the rain, which is the rainy season in this region. From the middle of September to the middle of April of the next year, the strong westerly wind came, bringing severe winter. The minimum temperature at the peak can reach - 50 degrees, and the maximum wind speed can reach more than 25 meters per second. It is a restricted climate zone for mountaineering. From May to September, due to the warming, melting and falling of snow, the water level of the valley often rises sharply and it is difficult to enter the mountain. Therefore, the best time for mountaineering activities should be arranged from May to early June, when the river rises, but it is not too serious. From July to September, the temperature at the top of the mountain is slightly higher and the good weather lasts for a long time, which is a good time for climbing.

When the altitude is above 7000 meters, there is a high-altitude wind of more than 8 degrees. The wind speed is more than 60 kilometers per hour, sometimes it can reach 25 meters in a second. When it snows, it will drop for 4 or 5 days in a row. When the temperature is the lowest, it will reach more than - 50 degrees. The peak is covered by dense fog all the year round.

Climbing activities

In 1902, the British mountaineers failed in their first attempt to climb Mount chogory. In the next 50 years, many attempts were unsuccessful. It wasn't until July 31, 1954 that the Italian mountaineers, Zile lacchetelli and me campanioni, set the record of their first ascent along the east ridge from the Pakistan side, which took nearly 100 days.

In 1976 and 1977, the Chinese Mountaineering Association twice organized teams to enter the north side of the qiaogeli peak for route reconnaissance. On August 4, 1982, the Japanese Mountaineering Association's georgori mountaineering team first climbed from the north slope along the North Ridge. After that, the Italian, Japanese and American mountaineering teams of Yokohama Mountain Association first conquered the chogory peak from the Chinese side.

In 1902, the British team led by Oscar eckenstein and Aleister Crowley attempted to climb the peak for the first time. After five attempts, none of them succeeded in climbing the peak, which may be due to insufficient physical training.

In 1954, adito diceo led an Italian mountaineering team to the top of the mountain. Two of them, Rino lesdre and archiri copagononi, successfully reached the top of the mountain on July 31.

In 1979, Meissner led a team of six people to try to climb from the south south west ridge (what he called the devil route), but he soon realized that the route was very dangerous for alpine cooperation. Coupled with the vomiting symptoms of several members, Meissner decided to change to the traditional route and ascend together with Mike Decker.

In 1981, Yingfang otagu and Saibo ascended to the top.

In 1982, a mountaineering team from the Japanese Mountain Association successfully reached the top of the mountain for the first time from the north slope of chogory peak in China.

In 1986, 14 people reached the summit. Wanda lukkawitz became the first woman to reach the top, and Lilian Baird was the second. Lilian and her husband reached the top together. But he died in the retreat. It took only 23 hours for jebnett chamus to reach the top, and jonesf lichtsky is the second time to reach the top. So far, jonesf lichensky is the record holder of two times to reach K2.

In 1993, a total of 16 people ascended the summit. Britton Jones parrett and American Dan mousse made a great feat along the West Ridge Route: they stormed the summit directly from the assault camp and returned in only 32 hours.

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Chinese PinYin : Qiao Ge Li Feng