Yugur Costume

Yugur Costume

Yugur costumes are the traditional costumes of Yugur people. Both men and women of Yugur nationality wear long gowns with high collar and lapel. Men wear red and blue belts, waist knives, fire sickles, little Buddhas and so on, while women's high collar robes have slits at the bottom, with lace embroidered on the collar, cuffs, slits and lapels. The jacket is made of satin high collar with scarlet, peach, emerald green and emerald blue. The belt is red, green and blue, with colored handkerchief and long leather boots. In winter, both men and women wear fox fur snowcaps and high boots; in summer and autumn, they wear white felt hats or top hats with flat top and edge. Women wear trumpet shaped red tassels or hats woven with Achnatherum splendens. They like to wear earrings, jade or jade bracelets and silver rings.

On June 7, 2008, Yugur costumes were listed in the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage list with the approval of the State Council. In November 2019, the list of national intangible cultural heritage representative project protection units was announced, and Sunan Yugur Autonomous County intangible cultural heritage protection and inheritance center was qualified as Yugur clothing project protection unit.

historical origin

According to historical legend, during the reign of Shunzhi in the Qing Dynasty, under the pressure of the Qing government, Yugur men were asked to wear a long braid and a black mandarin jacket. They were strongly resisted by the Yugur people and the anti Qing struggle broke out. In the Qing Dynasty, the crown prince, Taibao and general Nian gengyao led the army to suppress the struggle, killing many people and suppressing it. The custom of Yugur men wearing long braids and Mandarin coats lasted until 1949. Men's lower body wear pants, winter foot wear made of cowhide high waist nose skin "Kang Shen", wear socks. Hunters often wear leather nests made of cowhide for hunting, which are light and comfortable with fur or grass. In Haizi area, men also wear hand-made double nose round head high waist cloth boots. On the upper of the boots, the blue cloth is usually decorated with white thread and cloud shaped pattern. Yugur men also wear top hats. In winter, both men and women usually wear fox fur snowcaps. Now Yugur men and women generally wear fox fur snowcaps.

Yugur men are also wearing jade bracelets, silver bracelets and rings when they are old. It is said that it doesn't hurt to wear them. Rings are usually large silver rings, some of which are made of Silver Enamel, some of which are inlaid with beads in the middle, and are worn on the ring finger. Old men also like to wear crystal Brown glasses.

Clothing characteristics

Yugur costumes preserved the characteristics of some ancient ancestors, absorbed some of the characteristics of other nationalities, and formed the unique Yugur costumes.

Based on animal husbandry

Yugur people have been mainly engaged in animal husbandry for generations, thus forming a clothing culture with the characteristics of animal husbandry. In the early days, they lived by water and grass, nomadic in the vast Gobi desert, living in tents, wearing white stubble sheepskin jacket or red high collar clothes and long leather boots. Its clothing materials are from the animal husbandry itself, and its style is simple, cold resistant, sand proof and so on.

It is divided into formal dress and casual dress

With the development of society, great changes have taken place in the economic structure of Yugur society. In addition to animal husbandry, agriculture, forestry and other industries have developed. The Yugurs in pastoral areas still wear long robes and leather boots, while in rural areas and towns they mainly wear uniforms. They only wear traditional costumes on festivals and festive days. Its clothing can be divided into formal dress and casual dress.

The length of the dress is equal to the length of the body

Yugur costume has its own national characteristics. Both men and women wear long gowns with high collar, big skirt and right lapel, the length of which is equal to their own body length and trousers.

I used to wear braids

In the past, Yugur men had the custom of keeping long braids, and put the braids with the ends of silk thread on their heads. Now they mostly keep short hair.

Blood hat

The headdress of Yugur women is very distinctive. They wear trumpet shaped red tassels or hats woven with Achnatherum splendens. It is said that the hat is in memory of a murdered heroine in the history of our nation. The red tassel represents the blood on her head when she died.

Women's clothing

Headdress

The headdress of Yugur women is full of national characteristics. When a girl is 15 years old, she should wear "sardage", which means that she can grow up and get married. "Embellished with sarbou and dagger is made of a red shell.

Women's hats

Yugur women have the habit of wearing hats. The hat is made of felt pressed with white wool. The front edge is inlaid with two black edges, the brim is not wide, the back edge is slightly warped, the front edge is flat, and the top of the hat is decorated with red thread, with spikes hanging around the top of the hat. Some of them are decorated with various patterns, which look like a inverted horn on the head. It's very chic.

Unmarried girls and married women's hats are slightly different: unmarried girls wear "Ge Yao's kneading" on their forehead, that is, a long red cloth belt is decorated with coral beads, and the lower edge is made of coral and jade beads in red, yellow, white, green and blue. It is like a curtain of beads hanging down on their forehead. Five or seven braids, with colored velvet threads at the ends, tied in the belt at the back. The women in full dress wear wide brimmed cylinder flat hat with a large red ribbon hanging from the top. Married women wear long hair, that is, they first comb their hair into three braids, one hanging behind their back, and the left and right braids hanging from behind their ears in front of their chest. The head is three, tied to three braids, each of which is divided into three sections. It is connected by metal rings, and inlaid with silver, coral, agate, colored beads, shells and other accessories, forming a beautiful pattern. The length of the head is determined by the height of the body.

In the sunshine, Yugur women's hats are particularly gorgeous and solemn, full of national sentiment. When they walk on the road, pearl shells, silver and other headgear collide with each other, making a clear, harmonious, rhythmic jingle sound, which is very pleasant to hear.