Wool spinning and rolling skills (Yi People's wool spinning and rolling skills)

Name of China's national intangible cultural heritage: wool textile and rolling skills (Yi People's wool textile and rolling skills)

Applicant: Zhaojue County, Sichuan Province

Project No.: 884

Project No.: VIII - 101

Time of publication: 2008 (second batch)

Category: traditional art

Region: Sichuan Province

Type: new item

Applicant: Zhaojue County, Sichuan Province

Protection unit: Zhaojue County Yi Costume Culture Research Center

Brief introduction of wool spinning and rolling technology (Yi People's wool spinning and rolling technology)

Applicant: Zhaojue County, Sichuan Province

The rolling technology of wool spinning is a special weaving technology. It first soaks wool and camel hair with hot water, then extrudes them, and then uses sticks to grind and rub them together to form a non-woven wool fabric called "felt". Felt was called "or" in ancient times. As early as the Neolithic age, the technology of rolling felt with stick has been used in China. According to the historical records of the Zhou Dynasty: felt, wool, rubbing wool or felt. In the Northern Wei Dynasty (386-534), Jia Sixie's Qi Min Yao Shu said: "it is not necessary to make thick felt, but it is better to make it tight and thin." It can be seen that the manufacture of felt was common at that time. In the Tang Dynasty, the use of felt became more common. The saddle felt in Yuanzhou (now Gu County in Ningxia), Lingzhou (now Lingwu County in Ningxia), ningzhou (now Ning County in Gansu) and Fengzhou (now Wuyuan County in Inner Mongolia) were well-known in Northwest China. According to the records of the new Tang Dynasty, the Tubo state (located on today's Qinghai Tibet Plateau) was also famous for its red felt and xiafelt, and paid tribute to Chang'an. At present, the main producing areas of felt are concentrated in Sichuan, Gansu, Qinghai, Inner Mongolia, Ningxia and other northwest minority areas. According to the use, it can be divided into many varieties, including Kang felt, cushion felt, prayer felt, inner felt (surrounded by inner wall of yurt, etc.), outer felt (surrounded by outer wall), colored felt (rolled with colored wool), embroidered felt (decorated with embroidery), cut felt (according to felt) On the color pattern outline cut into a body shape), stove felt (placed next to the stove), etc. Felt can also be used for sewing satchels, girdles, sundry bags, etc. it is an indispensable necessity in the daily life of northwest ethnic minorities.

Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture is located in the southwest of Sichuan Province, which is the largest Yi inhabited area in China. Yi people mainly live in Liangshan area with an altitude of about 2500 meters, where sheep are abundant. In their long-term production and life, Yi people have formed the custom of making cashi, Wala, wool skirt, felt hat, felt socks and other clothing with wool and sheepskin. The Chinese name of "Kashi" is pi felt, which is mainly made of wool. It is an indispensable dress for Yi people, men and women, young and old. Its color is mainly black, white and blue. The tools used to roll cassock include bamboo mat, catapult, splint, bamboo curtain, etc. the rolling process is complex. There are single-layer and double-layer cassock. After the single-layer cassock is rolled out, wet it with water, fold it into 30 to 90 folds 2 inches wide, and then clamp it with splint to dry in the sun. Single layer cashmere is usually rolled with 2 to 3 Jin wool, while double layer cashmere is rolled with 5 to 7 Jin wool.

"Wala" is another representative clothing of Yi nationality. Its production process consists of shearing, twisting, snapping, twisting, weaving and sewing. After the woolen cloth is woven, it is cut with scissors according to the set length, and then the single woolen cloth is sewed together to form the rudiment of the wallah. Then, the vertical lines left in advance during weaving are twisted into about one foot long whiskers one by one, and a flat wool rope made of wool is sewn on the neckline to close the neckline. In this way, a complete wallah was made successfully. There are two styles of Wala: hanging beard and no hanging beard. They can be worn individually or put on the outside of the felt. In addition to the original color of hair, Yi people often use plant dyes to dye Wala blue, blue and other colors according to their favorite colors. With the characteristics of massiness, heat preservation and durability, Wala of Yi nationality can protect the sun in summer and keep warm in winter. It is a necessary clothing for Yi people all the year round, which fully shows its distinctive characteristics compared with other minority clothing and has symbolic significance.

Liangshan Yi People's wool spinning and rolling skills are complicated and time-consuming. At present, the number of craftsmen engaged in this skill is decreasing, so it is necessary to actively carry out relevant rescue and protection work.