Li Jin

Brocade of Li Nationality

Folk brocade of Li Nationality in Hainan Island. It has a long history. It was produced in the Li residential area of Hainan Island. According to the records of Dongxi fiber, the Li people took Chinese colored silk, disassembled colored silk and Jibei, and woven them into brocade According to Fan Chengda's GUI Hai Yu Heng Zhi, "Li Dan" and "Li Mu" have been sold to the mainland in Song Dynasty, "Guilin people know to buy Bedding".

In October 2009, UNESCO officially approved Hainan province's "Li nationality traditional spinning, dyeing, weaving and embroidery skills" (hereinafter referred to as "Li brocade skills") to be included in the first batch of UNESCO intangible cultural heritage list in urgent need of protection. On March 28, 2017, the 1000 people weaving brocade exhibition was held in Dongfang City, Hainan Province, and won the honorary title of "most people weaving cloth simultaneously" in Guinness world record.

purpose

Li Jin is mostly used for women's skirt, swing bag and other daily necessities. Today, there is a "Lijin Research Institute" in Nantong Shizhuan, which is engaged in research and production. A wonderful flower of Chinese textile art.

characteristic

Li brocade has many characteristics, such as exquisite production, bright colors, exaggerated and romantic colors, exquisite patterns, harmonious color matching, lifelike birds, animals, flowers and figures, and national characteristics in spinning, weaving, dyeing and embroidery. Li Brocade is mainly embroidered, dyed and flowered, with less embroidery. The dyestuffs are mainly made from wild or domestic plants in mountainous areas. These dyes are bright in color and do not fade easily. According to their own preferences, the Li people in various places have created a variety of weaving, dyeing and embroidery techniques. For example, the Li people in Baisha County have a kind of two-sided color embroidery, which is exquisitely made, colorful and characteristic, and has the reputation of "double-sided embroidery" in Hainan.

Craft production

Li Brocade is mainly made of cotton thread, supplemented by hemp thread, silk thread and gold and silver thread. The warp is usually dyed by tie dyeing. The warp is knitted on a tie frame, and then tied with yarn. After dyeing, the yarn is removed, and the pattern of blue ground and white flower appears, and then the colored weft is woven. Textile and weaving tools still use the old traditional tools, such as hand milled cross bar, wooden hand gin, pedal spinning machine and loom.

Classification of varieties

The varieties of Lijin include women's dress, top, trousers material, quilt sheet, headscarf, belt, hanging bag, shawl, shoes and cap, etc. There are more than 100 patterns of Li brocade, such as horse, deer, turtledove, snake, frog, peacock, chicken, bamboo, rice, flowers, water, clouds, stars and so on. Most of them are composed of simple straight lines, parallel lines, square, triangle, diamond and other geometric figures. In terms of color, he is good at using light and shade, green, red, black, white and other colors cooperate with each other, forming a strong artistic effect of color contrast.

Numerous patterns

The brocade pattern of Li nationality is a cultural phenomenon reflecting women's aesthetic consciousness, life style, cultural customs, religious belief and artistic accumulation. Its content mainly reflects the social production, life, love and marriage, religious activities and the auspicious or beautiful image of the Li people. According to incomplete statistics, there are more than 100 kinds of brocade patterns, which can be roughly divided into human pattern, animal pattern, plant pattern, geometric pattern, as well as patterns reflecting daily life and production tools, natural phenomena and Chinese character symbols. Among them, human pattern, animal pattern and plant pattern are the most commonly used brocade patterns.

The figure patterns mainly include wedding, dance, youth and happiness, hundred people, harvest and happiness, prosperity of people, grazing, auspicious and safe. It embodies people's strong desire for reproduction, prosperity of people, full of children and pursuit of a better life. Through exaggeration and deformation, the Li women reflect the life and production scenes of the Li people on the fabric, making the pattern modeling visual and artistic. The most representative is the wedding picture, which is mainly popular in Ledong, Sanya, Dongfang and other cities and counties. It is a typical human figure pattern. It reflects the wedding ceremony and customs of Li people, such as welcoming, sending, sending betrothal gifts and paying homage to the hall, on the skirt, and depicts the picture of the bride and groom and many villagers who come to the wedding. Its scene is open, warm and spectacular, rich in content, with distinctive national characteristics and strong regional customs.

The animal patterns mainly include dragon and Phoenix, yellow catfish, buffalo, deer, fish and shrimp, frog, crow, pigeon, bee, butterfly and so on. Among them, dragon pattern and frog pattern are the most common. Dragon pattern is the most popular Li brocade pattern in Baisha and Qiongzhong, which reflects that Li people regard dragon as a symbol of nobility, auspiciousness, happiness and beauty. Frog pattern is very popular among the people. In the traditional concept of Li nationality, frog has the function of expressing maternal love and avoiding evil. The frog pattern reflected in the clothing has a strict symmetrical structure. The pattern takes the "field" shape pattern as the main body, and there are four abstract frog patterns in the middle. The contrast of dynamic and static shows the main characteristics of frog's life in the field. The picture is full and the rhythm is harmonious. In some places, the frog patterns adopt exaggeration and deformation techniques, omitting the frog's front legs and lengthening the frog's hind legs, showing the frog's desire to jump. The design is bold, simple and has a unique national style.

Plant patterns mainly include kapok, clay flower, keel flower, bamboo leaf flower and other flowers, as well as vines, trees, grass and so on. The common ones are kapok pattern, flower pattern and so on. Kapok is one of the main textile materials of Li nationality. Women of Li nationality generally like to use kapok patterns as brocade patterns. The patterns are mainly kapok trees, with roots, branches, key patterns under the branches (also known as "arbitrary flowers"), flowers and green leaves, which symbolize deep roots and luxuriant leaves and happy families. The flower and grass patterns are popular in Wuzhishan area. The patterns take long columnar patterns as clan marks. The overall decoration is similar to the inverted "towel" shape in Chinese, with continuous patterns of wild grass and diamond. The implication is that the family is well-established and prosperous.

Geometric pattern is composed of straight line, parallel line, square, diamond, triangle and so on. It is expressed in clothing with abstract patterns, reflecting some characteristics of primitive thinking. It is rich in content and beautiful in color.

The patterns of daily production tools mainly include cooking, playing ball, textile, farming, carrying pole, fork and so on. Most of these patterns are created by Li women according to their own careful observation and understanding of life and their own artistic imagination.

The patterns of natural phenomena mainly include sun and moon, stars, lightning, water and fire, etc. Li nationality is a nation that worships nature. The worship of nature has always affected the development of brocade pattern.

The patterns of Chinese characters include Xizi, Fuzi, Luzi, Shouzi, Wanzi, etc. The Li nationality has only language but no writing. Due to the influence of Chinese culture, some brocade patterns gradually adopt Chinese characters. These Chinese characters reflect people's pursuit of a happy life and their wish to live a long and healthy life.

Historical development

Li brocade costumes are colorful, including tube skirt, scarf, flower belt, bag belt, bed sheet, quilt (formerly known as "Yazhou quilt") and so on. Li brocade tube skirt made of Li Brocade and single and double-sided embroidered fabric is gorgeous. Li women also need to inlay mica, shell, silver and glass beads on it. They can wear tube skirt inlaid with jewelry to shine when they move or dance. The skirt of Lijin in run dialect area (Baisha area) is the shortest among all the branches, which can be said to be the best

The first miniskirt

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Li brocade includes skirt, scarf, flower belt, bag belt, bed sheet and quilt (formerly known as Yazhou quilt). It has four major processes of spinning, weaving, dyeing and embroidery. The basic colors of Li brocade are brown and black, with green, red, white, blue, yellow and other colors alternating. It is suitable for preparation and rich in ethnic decorative flavor, forming rich patterns of exotic flowers and plants, birds and animals, and figures. Lijin is fine, light, white and durable. "Li brocade as brilliant as clouds" is the sincere praise of the ancients for the brocade craft of Li nationality. In ancient times, cotton in southern China was introduced by sea from India, South America and other places.

Li people use the cotton wool and ramie fiber in the capsule of kapok, and shrub cotton from America and India, such as island cotton, Brazilian kapok, Continental cotton and tree cotton. They mainly use embroidery, weaving and dyeing, and weaving flowers, but less embroidery. They use natural plant pigment as pigment to spin a kind of characteristic cotton cloth (using hemp and cotton as warp and weft respectively). Because kapok is also called Jibei, so Lijin is also called Jibei. Lijin is fine, light, soft, white and durable. It is called "Lijin is as bright as clouds" in the old saying.

Artistic attainments

From the long history, the brocade art of Li nationality fully shows the creative ability and artistic attainments of Li women. It can be said that the completion of an art treasure is not only the hard work and crystallization of Li women, but also the concentrated expression of Li women's wisdom. It is understood that it often takes 3-4 months or even longer for them to make a full dress. Whenever folk festivals or weddings are held, girls always come together in groups, wearing beautiful costumes, to get people's aesthetic psychological satisfaction, which means to show others their embroidery talent. Her outstanding weaving and embroidery skills are known as "weaving and embroidery experts", thus winning lofty praise and respect, as well as young men's admiration for her eyes and songs of praise and courtship. In his Li Qi Ji Wen, Zhang Qingchang, a man of Qing Dynasty, has such a description: young men and women who are unmarried will play the mouth Qin and the nose Xiao and sing Li songs in the spring and summer. If they are affectionate, they will make up a couple gradually, that is, they will make a spouse. Those who do not agree with it dare not be strong. " When a couple fall in love with each other, the girl always thinks of a piece she weaves

Chinese PinYin : Li Jin