Tian Haizi mountain

Tian Haizi mountain

Tianhaizi mountain is 6070m above sea level, 102.050670 in longitude and 29.949431 in latitude. It is 10km southeast of Kangding. It is also called wuse mountain and hunhaizi mountain in the manual of Sichuan Mountaineering Association. Weifeng is about 5900m high at 300m southeast ridge.

Brief introduction of mountain peak

Wuseshan mountain system is located in the northeast corner of Gongga mountain system, 10 kilometers southeast of Kangding, relatively independent. It belongs to the Gongga mountain range. The wuse mountain system is located in the northeast corner of the Gongga mountain system, 10 kilometers southeast of Kangding. Xuemenkan pass, 3948 meters above sea level, is the only pass in the Moxi laoyulin highway. The highway separates the wuse Haizi mountain system from the Gongga main mountain system. There are four independent snow peaks in the area of wuse mountain system: tianhaizi mountain (6070m), baihaizi mountain (5924m), Bijia mountain (5880m) and shehaizi mountain (5878m). The suitable climbing season is from mid September to mid October

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Climate conditions

This mountain is a typical weather condition in Gongga area. The microclimate changes a lot. There will be several changes in a day. The high altitude wind on the route is strong. If it is fine, you should get up early and start climbing.

Route to the mountain

At present, the route to tianhaizi mountain is quite convenient. Starting from Chengdu, cross Erlangshan Tunnel to Kangding in the afternoon, and then rent a car to laoyulin village, 10 kilometers southeast of Kangding, with an altitude of 3150 meters. Take the bus from laoyulin to Moxi for an hour, and then go up to the xuemenkan pass at an altitude of 3948 meters. There is a signal tower as a sign (it is traditionally called yajiageng, and there is a river running towards Moxi, which is called yajiageng River). ）The south side of Yakou highway is Gongga main mountain system, and the north side is wuse Haizi mountain small mountain system. There is a simple road, half an hour to reach the mixed Haizi base camp at the foot of tianhaizi mountain. In this way, starting from Chengdu, you can reach the tianhaizi mountain mountaineering camp as soon as it gets dark every day. This unique transportation advantage pushes Tian Haizi mountain to the climbers.

Climbing history

In 1993, the Americans reached the summit

Climbing by Japanese mountaineers in 2000

South Korean mountaineering team reached the summit in 2002

In May 2004, the Shenzhen mountaineering team led by Cao Jun,

Fat shoes, climbing by Chengdu mountaineering team led by a you

In September 2004, Wang Bing, Luo Jian and Rao Jin ascended to the top

In October 2004, the three Olympic cooperation team reached the summit

In September 2014, sang Xue climbed the mountain.

On October 31, 2018, two members of the Xinjiang Gushan expedition mountaineering team climbed to the top.

Climbing route

Base camp

Tianhaizishan base camp is located at the end of the simple highway, near the edge of hunhaizi or a higher Yakou. The camp is a local pasture with flat grassland. There is a river nearby, which is very suitable for camping. The altitude is between 4100-4200 meters.

ABC, the base camp

Starting from the base camp, the river goes up to Yakou and starts to walk up the gravel slope to the left. After the gravel slope reaches the top, a ridge can be seen. Along the ridge, two snow mountains can be seen in front. On the right side is tianhaizi mountain, and on the left side is baihaizi mountain. At the end of the ridge, the gravel slope begins to cross and camp near the glacier under tianhaizi mountain, with an altitude of 4700 meters. Because the mountain is broken, the route is hard and the physical consumption is large, the journey is more than 6 hours (you can consider hiring a back husband to help transport materials in old Yulin).

ABC---C1

The avalanche trough in the middle of tianhaizi and baihaizi mountains can be seen from ABC. ABC starts to climb along the C-shaped glacier on the left side of the avalanche trough, which is also a snowdrift trough or ice avalanche trough. When climbing, don't get too close to baihaizi mountain. Avalanches often come down on the mountain, which has a certain degree of danger. There are two ice crevasses on the route to pass through. C1 is located at the pass between tianhaizi and baihaizi, with an altitude of 5100 meters, The camp is relatively flat, with 5-7 tents. To the south of the pass is the Gongga mountain system, and the scenery is spectacular. To the north, there is no mountain, and the view is wide. As this camp is located at the wind outlet, we must take anti wind measures when camping!

C1--C2

This route is difficult to climb! C1 starts from the southeast of the glacier and cuts to the lower part of the rock. It starts to climb up a section of vertical ice wall to the starting point of the ice rock mixing section. The ice rock mixing route has road ropes and protection points left by Koreans. The road ropes are rotten and can not be used. They can only be used as the basis for finding the route. The protection points must be checked and reinforced before they can be used (Cao Jun strengthened them in May climbing, In September, our climbing inspection found that after a summer, it was very loose. This route is about 60 degrees and 300 meters in length. Below is the avalanche trough, ABC camp and C1 camp can be seen, showing a strong sense of exposure. The end of the ice rock route is a 50 degree ice slope (snow slope in September). It is suggested to use the road flag here to avoid losing direction when moving down. After climbing up five rope segments, you can find camp C2. This is a slope with ice rock mixture. There is no flat place and the terrain is narrow. You can only dig out the camp by yourself. The altitude is about 5400m (here you can choose to climb the ice wall according to physical strength and weather conditions, and build C2 camp in our C3, reducing one camp).

C2--C3

Starting from C2, there is a section of ice wall with a height of 50 meters and a slope of 50 degrees. After climbing the ice wall, there is a relatively gentle snow slope. According to physical fitness and weather conditions, C3 camp can be dug on the snow slope, with an altitude of about 5600m.

C3 -- topping

The route from C3 to the summit needs to be exposed to the steep snow slope, which is about 50 degrees. There are two 60 degree ice and snow walls, a small ice crack, and a large ice pit with icicles near the peak. You can choose to climb up from the south side of the ice slope. You must take the group protection. It is recommended to use the road flag in this section, so as not to lose the direction when you withdraw. The peak is ice and snow terrace.

It is suggested that the team with better physical strength and skills can consider partially repairing the route to ice rock mixture after arriving at C1, and then get up as early as possible when starting from C1, build C2 above the ice wall at an altitude of 5400 according to the physical condition, and directly rush to the top from C2. Equipment:

In addition to the personal equipment you should carry, you should also carry a small ice pick, rock cone, Snow Cone and ice cone. (you should bring more ice cones when climbing in May, and more snow cones when climbing in September), road flag, connecting rope and road rope.

Address: 10km southeast of Kangding County, Sichuan Province

Longitude: 102.052890133

Latitude: 29.947542209428

Chinese PinYin : Tian Hai Zi Shan