Name of China's national intangible cultural heritage: Tibetan costumes
Applicant: Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai Province
Project No.: 1020
Project No.: Ⅹ - 113
Time of publication: 2008 (second batch)
Category: folk customs
Region: Qinghai Province
Type: new item
Applicant: Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai Province
Protection unit: Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture Cultural Center
Introduction to Tibetan costumes:
Applicant: Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai Province
Tibetan traditional costumes are mainly popular in the Tibetan inhabited areas of Tibet Autonomous Region and Qinghai Province. It mainly includes zhaza costumes in cuomei County, Linzhi Gongbu Tibetan costumes, Kejia women's costumes, Anduo costumes in northern Tibet, bazha Tibetan costumes, Yushu traditional costumes, huare costumes and other types.
Zhaza costume in cuomei county has a long history, and its source has a moving legend. During the Tubo Dynasty in the 7th century, zhaza costume was regarded as a noble daily necessities and was highly praised. It is said that the colorful boots "Jiaqian" in the costumes were originally a tribute to the local government when zhe guzong paid taxes. It has a thick base, strong leather and comfortable appearance. In the study of the cultural exchange between the Tubo Dynasty and the Central Plains and the Tibetan history, culture, art and folk custom in the 7th century, zhaza costume has an important reference value.
The Tibetan clothing of Linzhi Gongbu is deeply influenced by the local special living environment, but it is quite different from the clothing of other Tibetan areas. This kind of dress has gone through a development process from simple and practical to gorgeous and generous, which is closely related to the living customs of Tibetan ancestors in Gongbu area, such as grazing, hunting and tree cutting. The Tibetan clothing of Linzhi Gongbu can be divided into three types: Festival Dress, ordinary dress and special work dress. It has collarless coat, sleeveless coat and other styles, which are simple to make and gorgeous in style. With the improvement of living standards, the Tibetan clothing of Linzhi Gongbu has been further developed and improved in many aspects, such as workmanship, texture, decoration and so on. It is more and more luxurious and moving on the premise of keeping the original clothing form unchanged.
The costume of Tibetan women in Kejia village of Pulan County originated from the later Hongqi period, and has a history of more than 800 years. This kind of clothing includes two parts: clothing and jewelry. The clothing part is composed of coffee colored women's Tibetan clothing, rainbow shoes, shawls, hats, lambskin, otter skin, satin, etc. the jewelry part is composed of 6815 pieces of jewelry, including gaqiong, galai, Jiwu, Chacha, Bata, Nayu, square pure natural gold, jadeite bottle, coral, silver flake, silver grain, turquoise, super silver chain, super Turquoise chain, etc form. Women's clothing of Kejia is unique in shape, noble and elegant in style. In the design, exaggerated artistic techniques are used, reflecting rich imagination, which is amazing.
Anduo costume in northern Tibet has a long history. It was gradually matured under the influence of other ethnic cultures in the prosperous Tang Dynasty, and has been handed down for more than 1300 years. The herdsmen of Anduo have been wearing sheepskin Tibetan robes for generations to resist the cold climate. Under this situation, the clothing of Anduo is quite different from that of other Tibetan areas, especially in the production of hats. Andor uses lamb skin and silk as raw materials for hat making. There is a small post made of cloth in the center of the hat top, with a height of about 20-30 cm. There are more than 180 styles of Amdo's costumes. Herdsmen's costumes can be divided into daily costumes, festival costumes and ceremonial costumes. Daily costumes are light and durable, while festival costumes and ceremonial costumes are exquisite and generous. Most of Amdo's Tibetan robes are adorned, and men often wear waist knives, sickles and bullet clips on their belts, which not only reflects the characteristics of nomadic culture, but also has a connection with modern life.
The clothing in bazha area of Shenzha county is made of local wool with unique style and shape. This kind of clothing is handmade by herdsmen themselves, and the production process has been handed down from generation to generation in the family. The handmade embroidery on the clothes is simple and elegant with profound implication, and the decorations matched with the clothes are exquisite and elegant. Bazha Tibetan costume is a vivid reflection of the local folk custom, history and production and living customs, which has a certain value of sociology, folklore and historical and cultural research.
Yushu traditional clothing is composed of clothing and decoration. The clothing part mainly includes Tibetan robe, Tibetan hat, Tibetan shirt, Tibetan pants, Tibetan boots and so on. The basic style of Tibetan robes is Tibetan traditional robes, which are divided into two types: winter and summer. The most common winter clothes are charisangu, Lecha, Chari, etc., while the summer clothes are jiamasangu, Jinxin, Jiama, etc. In addition, Yushu clothing can also be divided into regular clothes and formal dresses. Regular clothes are made of various materials, such as woolen cloth, sheepskin and lambskin, while formal dresses are made of wool, silk, woolen cloth, lambskin and fox skin. Yushu Tibetan boots are called "Lang". There are many kinds of Yushu Tibetan boots, such as "nanglang", "gaolang", "zangbagayi", "guozilang" and so on. The decoration part of Yushu traditional clothing is mainly composed of headdress, eardress, headdress, hand dress, waist dress and so on, showing strong local ethnic characteristics.
Huare Tibetan costumes are different from men's and women's. for men's costumes, white is auspicious, and they are often green, purple and grass yellow. The Tibetan robes are broad, and the clothes are longer than the body without buttons. Huare Tibetan men often wear white brown shirts, light colored cloth pants, hanging face fur coats or white board fur coats with lamb or leopard skin as collar, lamb or fur inlaid with edge, and red silk belt around the waist. In summer, Tibetan women in huare wear pointed white felt hats with black rims and red tassels on top, cloth robes and Tibetan boots. In winter, they wear four ear fur hats called "four tiles" and hanging face fur robes with fox skin collar and otter skin edge. The most characteristic of huare Tibetan costumes is the white high cylinder felt hat, which is inlaid with copper and silver top seats and decorated with red tassels. The style is gorgeous and the shape is unique. Huare costumes retain the original forms of many Tibetan folk arts and crafts, and play an important role in the inheritance of Tibetan folk culture.
Tibetan costume is an indispensable part of Tibetan culture, which embodies the wisdom of the Tibetan people and has unique research value in Tibetan studies, sociology, ethnology, folklore, costume history of ethnic minorities and history and culture.
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