The Miao costumes

The name of China's national intangible cultural heritage: Miao costumes

Applicant: Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture, Hunan Province

Project No.: 513

Project No.: Ⅹ - 65

Time of publication: 2008 (second batch)

Category: folk customs

Region: Hunan Province

Type: Extension Project

Applicant: Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture, Hunan Province

Protection unit: Biguo national costume research and development center of Xiangxi Autonomous Prefecture

Introduction to Miao costumes:

Applicant: Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture, Hunan Province

From ancient times to modern times, the Miao nationality has experienced several large-scale migrations, and formed a special national culture in this process. The most distinctive and concrete manifestation of Miao culture is its colorful national costumes, among which the costumes of Miao women are the most representative.

Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture is located in the western part of Hunan Province, Hunan, Hubei, Chongqing and Guizhou provinces. There are more than 20 branches of Miao Nationality in Xiangxi, each of which contains several sub branches. This makes the costumes of Miao Nationality in Xiangxi appear more diverse, and finally form the basic characteristics of one type (Xiangxi type) and three types (Huabao type, Fenghuang type, Jilu type). The costumes of Miao Nationality in Western Hunan include Headkerchief, shawl, coat, apron, belt, flower belt, trousers, skirt, leggings, socks, shoes and so on. These costumes are decorated with hundreds of imaginative and profound patterns such as geometric patterns, animal patterns, plant patterns and so on. Xiangxi Miao costumes are made with a set of traditional techniques, such as textile, printing and dyeing, embroidery, brocade, cross stitch, counting yarn, wax dyeing, tie dyeing and so on. All kinds of techniques have unique production processes and processing methods.

Miao people, who live in the high altitude mountainous area in the south of Tongzi County, Guizhou Province, in order to resist the local cold winter climate, most of their jackets adopt the split front style, while the bottom is wearing batik pleated skirt and cross stitch apron, with cross stitch sleeves on the sleeves and multi-layer cross stitch Leggings on the legs. Miao women think that the colors in nature are the materials they choose in their life. They should wear these colors on their bodies to form a kind of beauty that originates from and transcends nature.

There are four kinds of Miao costumes in Xixiu District, Anshun County, Guizhou Province: first, women wear a half moon shaped mahogany comb, with their hair wrapped in a bun on the comb and a silver chain on the outside. The two lapels of the top are crossed together, and the lower part is wearing a long skirt, with a hemp belt or a brocade belt around the waist. The apron is often decorated with batik or embroidery; second, women wear a bun, with a cyan batik cloth on the outside, folded into a pointed top, and the costumes are mostly made of indigo Color, with various lace decoration, the skirt has two white lace, festival lace with bright color, above with embroidery, dyeing and other methods to make all kinds of flower and bird patterns, the lower body is a pleated skirt, skirt length over the knee, skirt feet decorated with lace, leg wrapped with green cloth belt; third, women with a small wooden comb tied bamboo oblique inserted in the bun, and then the remaining long hair and wig around the comb They are usually blue, blue and black, with lace on the cuffs and collar. They are usually red on festive or other festivals, with blue or white skirts to the heels, and with brocade waist and white apron. The fourth is women's bun, with wax dyed cloth as arch bridge shaped exterior decoration, silver hairpin on the forehead, slanted cardigan on the upper body, and lace on the sleeves and collar, He wore a blue and white or blue and white batik pleated skirt with a floral apron around his waist.

Anshun Guanling Miao costumes are representative of Miao people who speak Sichuan, Guizhou and Yunnan dialects. They are mainly concentrated in Dingyun, Guansuo, Huajiang and other Miao inhabited areas in Guanling County, Guizhou Province. Qinglong, Xingren, Anlong, Zhenning and other counties around Guanling are also popular. Guanling Miao costume is divided into two parts: dress and headdress. In the dress, three embroidery patterns with different sizes and patterns on the collar, shoulder and sleeve symbolize the hometown of the Miao people, namely the Yellow River, the Yangtze River and the Yuanjiang River. The different geometric figures represent the crisscross fields in the three major river basins. The large pattern in the middle of the skirt symbolizes the Miao compatriots who are connected by their hearts and hands. In the large-scale color embroidery patterns with rectangular front chest and back, different patterns represent the sun, stars, flowers, etc. The three embroidery patterns in the shape of "Chuan" on the waist represent the three major dialects of Miao language. Anshun Miao people pay more attention to headwear. Married women twist their hair from the temple into a cylindrical bun, turn it over the right ear from left to right, and then insert a red and green horn shaped wooden comb. Unmarried girls' headwear combs their hair from the forehead to the front, and then braids it into a braid with the broken hair twisted into a braid, which turns on the head from left to right, leaving the braid tail divided into whiskers The shape is in the upper end of the right ear.

The Miao costumes in nayongqing, Guizhou Province are the most intact of all the Miao branches. Their headdress is inserted in a V-shaped bun, which looks like an ox horn. It is said that "Chiyou's ear temples are like sword halberds, and his head has horns. He fights with Xuanyuan and touches people with horns, but people can't go to them." nayongqing Miao headdress has the "family emblem" signs such as "head of the horse" and "tentacles". In particular, it is worth mentioning that Nayong's all embroidered costumes have exquisite craftsmanship and simple production process, which can be regarded as the best of Miao costumes.

Due to the different cultural background, living environment and intermarriage scope of different branches of the Miao nationality, different clothing cultural circles have been formed, among which the clothing of the Miao Nationality in Jianhe, Guizhou is one. It is distributed in ten villages and towns in the county, with 12 categories and nearly 100 styles. There are more than 20 kinds of embroidery alone, and various needling techniques. Jianhe Miao clothing pattern is rich and colorful, simple and mysterious, unique layout, rich and rigorous composition, clear image priority and strong contrast of color decoration, which has unique aesthetic value and distinctive national style.

Taijiang, Guizhou, is famous for its rich contents, various forms, simple and mysterious shapes, and bold and ingenious colors. According to the local dialects of the Miao people, its types include Fangyou type, Fangjiu type, fangbai type, fangxiu type, Fangnan type, fangweng type, Fangli type, baxiang type and Weng Mang type, with more than 100 styles. There are more than 20 kinds of embroidery techniques for Taijiang Miao clothing, including flat embroidery, brocade embroidery, broken thread embroidery, braid embroidery, pan embroidery and so on. Its composition has symmetrical style, left-right style, central style and other styles. It reflects the characteristics of variation and exaggeration in art. It has strong ideological and clear primary and secondary. A composition is a story, which is called "a history book on the body" by historians.

Baibei Miao clothing "hundred bird clothing and feather skirt" is unique, which is the most representative of Miao clothing in Rongjiang County, Guizhou Province. The pattern of dress and skirt is mainly composed of 100 birds, with dragon and Phoenix images interspersed among them, reflecting the worship of bird totem of this branch of Miao nationality. The skirt, sleeve, apron and hem are covered with other patterns, such as fish, shrimp, clam, spider, snake, chain, flower tree, mountain and river, etc. Clothing production needs to go through rolling, rolling, kneading, pounding and other processes. In this process, batik, flower weaving, embroidery and other processes are used alternately. The whole production is delicate and creative, showing a certain national regionality.

The color performance of Suoga Qingmiao clothing is very outstanding. The two kinds of clothing mainly made by hand are made of natural raw materials, namely, color batik and cross stitch embroidery. Many ancient cultural customs and information are preserved in Suoga Qingmiao colorful clothing (mainly women's clothing). Unique patterns, lines and various ideographic and symbolic symbols have become an important part of Qingmiao culture.

Danzhai County of Guizhou Province is located in the slope of the southern edge of Yunnan Guizhou Plateau. The multi-ethnic mountainous area here is dominated by the ganao branch of Miao nationality. The relatively independent geographical environment makes the Miao people who live and work here form their own unique clothing culture. By comparing the ancient costumes that can be collected now, it is found that the differences between the ancient costumes of the seven sub ethnic groups are very small, among which the "elegant gray" hundred bird costume can keep its original appearance best. After development, the differences among the costumes of different sub ethnic groups are increasing, but there is still one thing in common, that is, to display the bird totem worshipped by the ganao branch of the Miao nationality with embroidery or batik techniques, so as to show the bird pattern incisively and vividly. The extreme worship of birds has created the artistic charm of the costumes of ganao branch of Miao nationality. The costumes such as "hundred bird costumes", "Jinji costumes" and "batik costumes" have embodied the ethnic consciousness of bird worship and become an important cultural symbol of ganao branch.

Chinese PinYin : Miao Zu Fu Shi