dragon robes with jade belts(mǎng páo yù dài)

dragon robes with jade belts

A robe embroidered with boa constrictor and a belt decorated with jade. It refers to the official costumes, and also refers to the costumes of emperors and generals in traditional operas. Also known as "mang Yi jade belt". At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, it was stipulated that the leather belt was made of jade, gold, silver, copper, black horn and other materials according to the different grades of officials. Such leather belts are also called Jade belts, gold belts, silver belts and so on. Among them, jade belts are the most noble, and can only be used by officials of more than one grade. (Shen Du, founder of mingguan Pavilion style)

explain

Idiom: boa robe jade belt embroidered with boa robe, decorated with jade belt. It refers to the official costumes, and also refers to the costumes of emperors and generals in traditional operas. Also known as "mang Yi jade belt".

Historical sources

Since Emperor Wudi of Han Dynasty, the ancients had a kind of dress in the system from emperor's relatives to ministers and officials. It first appeared in the Qin and Han Dynasties and lasted until the end of the Qing Dynasty. The ancients believed that five claws were dragons and four claws were mangs. So it became a Dragon Robe and a python robe. Jade belt refers to the belt around the waist. A rectangular block made of white jade and pierced with red or blue thread. There are jade buttons. So it is called mangpao jade belt. Description is a kind of wealth and nobility. the so-called jade belt usually refers to the leather belt decorated with jade. This kind of jade products for decorative leather belt is called "Kuo", commonly known as jade belt board. The early jade belt is a kind of di é Xi è band, that is, the leather belt is decorated with jade and many clasps, which are used to hook small appliances or accessories. There is only one belt, one buckle and no tail. According to records, the earliest appearance of the walking belt was in the Warring States period, which was introduced into the mainland by Hu knights. The original decoration was mainly at the junction of the two ends of the belt in the middle of the front abdomen, with the focus on the hook, which was made of both jade and copper. After the northern and Southern Dynasties, it evolved into a jade belt with only square ribbon on it. In Sui and Tang Dynasties, jade belts were customized for official clothes. Jade belt was popular in Tang and Song dynasties. In the Tang Dynasty, there was a custom-made "big belt system" in the imperial court, which distinguished the official grade by the decoration quality and quantity. First grade officials wear knives and knives? Stone, civil and military three grade official wear jade belt, four, five grade official wear gold belt, six, seven grade official wear silver belt. At that time, most of the jade belts were made of double thread, double button and double thallium tail. Usually, the leather belt is covered with a brocade belt cover, and the belt cover is decorated with jade belt plate. The number of officials depends on their rank. In the Five Dynasties and Song Dynasty, the jade belts of Shan and Shuang were used at the same time. Generally speaking, jade belts can be divided into several types according to the number of "Yi", buckle and thallium tail: single Yi, single buckle and no thallium tail; single Yi, single buckle and single thallium tail; double Yi, double buckle and single thallium tail; double Yi, double buckle and double thallium tail; three Yi and three buckle and double thallium tail (the former "Yi" is divided into two parts, and there are more plug-in concealed buckle at three stations). In the case of using the double button, the two ends of the front button are drilled with small holes for inserting pins, and the end of the button is decorated with thallium tail. After passing through the buckle, the thallium tail is vertical to the ground at the back waist, which means "down". The two ends of Houkai are equipped with buckles, which are usually made of metal, but buckles made of jade have also been found. The jade belt of the Five Dynasties period is not inlaid with jade in the front, but decorated with seven square jade plates in the back, which is known as "Paifang". The jade belt of the Song Dynasty is decorated with 2-6 strips in the front and square in the back. The northern grassland people loved waist ornaments very much, so after the Mongols came to the Central Plains, the fashion of wearing jade belts on the waist in the upper society was further carried forward. In the Liao and Jin Dynasties, jade belts were nearly made in the Ming Dynasty. There were about 20 pieces of jade belts. Most of the designs were spring water, autumn mountains, hunting dogs, swans, haidongqing and so on. The carving was exquisite. However, the orientation of peach shaped belt plate is disordered, with upward and downward ones. In fact, at least in the Yuan Dynasty, the shape and quantity of leather belt had been stylized. However, until the early Ming Dynasty, the number of Dai was allowed to vary from 16 to 25. The fashion of wearing jade belt on waist in Ming Dynasty continued to flourish with the development of jade industry. In this period, the system of wearing jade belts was relaxed, but the texture, shape, quantity and decoration of jade belts used by officials at different levels were still clearly stipulated. In the 15th year of Hongwu, the Ming government made a rigid regulation on the wearing of jade belts. Zhang Zili's "Zheng Zi Tong" in the Ming Dynasty was written in the first chapter of Xu Ji: "in the Ming Dynasty, there were three round peaches in the front of the belt. Paifang about said fish tail (thallium tail), there are two small side Fu Bi. There were 7 in the back and 13 in the front This is the jade belt used by the officials, a total of 20. The emperor's jade belt is 24. It should be noted that the orientation of the tip of round peach is very important. According to the system of Ming Dynasty, there are two rows of round peaches on the left and right, with the tips facing the back waist. From the front, three points to the left and three points to the right. In the collection, the orientation of the tip of round peach can be judged by the pattern on the strip. Some of the round peaches in the collection belt plate are pointed up or down, while others are left and right in confusion. This kind of band plate is not made in the standard Ming Dynasty, which is afraid to be used by northern minorities such as Liao and Jin Dynasties, or it is an imitation of later generations, and the imitators don't understand the system, so they imagined it out of thin air. In many ancient costume TV dramas, both the emperor and his officials use a wide cloth belt around their waist. Some of them just have a few jade ornaments on the wide cloth belt. The gap between this kind of jade belt and the jade belt in real life is almost outrageous. The belt of the Ming Dynasty, in particular, was defined as leather belt at the beginning of the founding of the Ming Dynasty. The belt was decorated with ribbon, which was made of jade, gold, silver, copper, black horn and other materials according to the different grades of officials. Such leather belts are also called Jade belts, gold belts, silver belts and so on. Among them, jade belts are the most noble, and can only be used by officials of more than one grade. The belt became quite long after many decorations were put on it, but the waist and abdomen of the officials were not so thick, so the leather belt of Ming Dynasty was tied but not tied, and only the string was tied to the armpit rib. As a result, the leather belt of the Ming Dynasty did not play the role of waist binding as it did in the Tang and Song Dynasties, but became a purely decorative tool. Only those who wear military uniform or armour, the leather belt is really tied on the waist. However, compared with clothes, leather belt does play a significant role in decoration, making the wearer look very luxurious and generous. Because the leather belt is not tied, it is only suspended at the waist. Sometimes it will be lifted up to the chest, sometimes it will be dropped down to the abdomen. In order to maintain balance, it must be supported by hand. In addition, the two thallium tails lost their original meaning and were simply pasted on the leather belt for decoration. It is said that the jade belt of Zhu Yuanzhang, the founder of the Ming Dynasty, was tied but not tied. When his jade belt goes up to his chest, it shows that he is in a good mood. On the contrary, when his jade belt dropped below his abdomen, it showed that the emperor would be furious and even kill people. In addition, the jade belt on the statue of Zheng He, the eunuch of Sanbao, was tilted up to his chest. Since the Qing Dynasty, the official system of using jade belts has been abolished, but jade belts still become a kind of pure decoration popular among the people. Jade belts in Qing Dynasty no longer have a very complete form, mainly with hooks and buckles. Some of them become pure ornaments and no longer have practical value to wear. 　　

Chinese PinYin : mǎng páo yù dài